![]() I like the crispness in the look you get with those clean straight lines on a quilt. 99% of my ruler work was done with a 2″ X 10″ template ruler on my Sitdown. For Sitdown machine ruler quilting you need a good grippy tape on the back of your ruler, more so than on a longarm, because you are trying to move both quilt and ruler in unison. It takes practice and I think the biggest tip I can offer is to relax your hands so that you are not putting unnecessary downward pressure on the ruler, which in effect causes drag and difficulty moving your quilt sandwich. Having said that, I did enjoy having the option on my Sitdown machines to use a ruler. ![]() I have to say it is considerably easier on the long arm. I’ve used rulers on my DSM, my Sweet 16 Sitdown and now my longarm machine. For all other purposes, please contact me at Thanks! Feel free to re-blog, pin or share with attribution to The Inbox Jaunt. PS…All tutorials, images and information are the property of Lori Kennedy at The Inbox Jaunt and are intended for personal use only. Pre-orders for signed copies will be mailed the week of April 2!!! MORE Free Motion Machine Quilting 1-2-3 is a celebration of the seasons and holidays and includes a chapter on fun fillers and backgrounds. Would YOU rather free motion quilt or use a ruler?ĭo YOU have a ruler you can’t live without? As many of you have mentioned, there are a sea of rulers out there… the question remains, which rulers do we absolutely need and which ones can we find a free motion alternative for? Her project is a great way to learn this technique–at least well enough to find out if we want to pursue it. Her instructions offered free by BERNINA are very easy to follow. The question remains which do I like better?Īmanda Murphy’s quilt-a-long is excellent. In this case, my hand drawn circles came out better than the ruler circles-but I’m sure with practice the ruler circles would be more precise. For the free motion version, I drew two lines to mark the top and the bottom of the circles. The ruler work version required drawing a placement line down the center of the space. Again, I would say this method is not as perfect as ruler work– but easier– and I don’t mind the imperfection.Īrea 7 is three circles. I started with two lines in the center–for the overlap distance as well as tick marks for the placement of the circles. ( Diamond tutorial HERE)Īrea 6 in Amanda Murphy’s project is overlapping circles. The result is not as perfect as the ruler work version, but I like the hand drawn look. I replaced the ruler work diamonds with a motif from my new book called Deirdre’s Diamonds-(named after my daughter who is getting married this year!) To create Deirdre’s Diamonds, I drew a centerline and tick marks to space the diamonds evenly. Instead of straight lines, I stitched slight curves and I couldn’t help myself–I added a three loop embellishment.Īrea 5 is diamonds. In Area 4, I added the same tick marks to keep the spacing of the darts even. ![]() Ruler work does involve some marking, so I allowed myself to use marks for the free motion version as well. (See my hand drawn version of Lesson One: An Alternative to Ruler Work HERE) My goal was to stay faithful to the original design, but see how I could do it without rulers. It’s too early to tell if I’m struggling because I’m a beginner or because this technique is not one I’ll ever enjoy.Īfter working on Amanda Murphy’s ruler work project , I let myself “free” to explore the project from a “hand-drawn” perspective. ![]() Ruler work is challenging for me and I can only concentrate on it for an hour at a time. Yesterday we looked at my beginner attempts at ruler work.
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